Coming Home

I was more than ready to go back home, bringing a baggage full of nostalgias, all my past belongings on the day of March 17th, I felt spring is about to come.  It was almost the blossom season in My hometown Shiraz, where people do not experience cold winters, Spring is filled with orange flowers and its pleasant smells, Summer is hot and full of lives. It is also home to renowned poetry and literature figures such as Hafez and Saadi.

As Hafez stated in one of his work in Divan Hafez:

“How beautiful is Shiraz’s unparalleled state

God save it from harm and the hands of fate”


I found myself immersed in the city of Shiraz and my heart is in awe when standing in front of the most majestic attraction of Shiraz: Nasir ol Molk Mosque, also known as the Pink Mosque and a gate with beautiful Persian tiles.  It does possess any special features at a first glance from the exterior, but once I stepped into the inner courtyard, my mind was blowing away.  A pond designed with various shapes and patterns is situated in the middle of the courtyard, which kept me visually occupied for a good few minutes. Yet, the best was still to happen. As I walk closer and enter from a random door next to the courtyard, I found myself to a completely different world: the mosque itself. It was one of those places where you have to pinch yourself to believe this beauty really exists. I was there for the perfect timing; the mosque is filled with early morning light penetrates through colorful glasses and reflected on the ground.  I spent around an hour just sitting on the ground and observing things around me, I had a little moment of myself and I felt it was pure bliss.


I then traveled inside of my memory onto Bazaar-e Vakil, the traditional market of Shiraz.  I can’t say enough about my experience I had in this traditional bazaar. A walk in Bazaar-e Vakil will provide a touch of local history and a glance of the past lives of our ancestors.  It is also a perfect getaway to discover masterpieces of Zand architecture: characterized by repetition of arcs, traditional pattern and the wide vaulted brick avenues. Carpet, as a very popular decoration and functional piece, was hanging from walls to fondle our observation. Ordinary market life is at its fullest here, vendors with many goods to bargain, from spices to kitchen supplies, you will find everything you are looking for.

On another beautiful and warm day, I was on my way to explore the Hafez’ tomb. It is not only a place to an ordinary garden or tomb of Hafez, but almost a sentimental place where many citizens gather. People are sitting around, reading or reciting Hafez’ poetry. His tomb stands proudly in the center of the garden.  Again, I spent way too much time than I would expect, I just cannot help myself from enjoying the place and its magical vibe.

I then headed on the Hafez Street, which leads me to Eram garden: another traditional jewel in Shiraz. Just like many other famous and spectacular places in Shiraz, it’s a paradise of greenness. A historical building situated in the midst of the garden, is filled with many carved ceilings and the walls are decorated with mirrors. Of course, we have to talk about the stunning design of the Persian gardens, which is composed of waterways and pedestrian paths that is mingled with the nature.

It did not end there, one of the reason to travel to Shiraz is to taste the local food: desserts like Ash sabzi, kalampolo , Dizi and Falodeh (traditional Ice cream ), are something that you should not miss. If you have the opportunity, I would invite you for a tasting at a local Iranian’s house, where the food is distinctly different from what they serve in the local restaurants.

Lastly and sadly I had to say goodbye to Shiraz with a visit to Persepolis: a signature monumental heritage that most Iranians are proud of.   If you have the chance to meet any Iranian, you are probably familiar with this name and most likely the first thing they would mention is that “one is from the Persian Korosh family, an ancient muilti-cultural Empire who respected the freedom of worshiping other religions and cultures”, people at the time were integrated well into the society and the king was much respected.


بازگشت به خانه

اواخر اسفند ۱۳۹۷دقیقا چند روز مانده به شروع بهار, آماده بازگشت به خانه بودم با چمدانی پر از دلتنگی برای همه ی متعلقاتی که ازآنها دور بودم ؛عطر بهار نارنج, قدم زدن های پاییزی در خیابان های ارم٫ حس خنکی فالوده پشت ارگ و طعم فراموش نشدنی غذاهای محلی ٫ مهمان نوازی مردمم و حال شاعرانه غروب های حافظیه و سعدیه. گویی همه ی خوبی ها یکجا جمع شده باشند. به قول حافظ

خوشا شیراز و وضع بی مثالش

خداوندا نگه دار از زوالش

غرق در این افکار بودم که خودم را روبروی سردر زیبای مسجد نصیرالملک یافتم  محو تماشای خط نستعلیق بالای ان   . قدم به حیاط گذاشتم ٫حوض وسط حیاط ٬ طاق های اطراف و نسیم صبحگاهی ٫ خاطرات دوران دانشجویی ام را  در دانشگاه قآنی  و وقت گذرانی های جوانی در وسط حیاط این مسجد  را دوباره زنده کرد . از همان در همیشگی که نشان کرده بودم وارد شبستان اصلی مسجد شدم که دنیایی متفاوت بود از رمز و راز و می بایستی خود را نیشگون بگیری تا باور کنی این همه زیبایی واقعی است. می دانستم که در بهترین زمان ممکن آنجا بودم تا تماشاگر  بازی سحر انگیز نور و رنگ باشم. نزدیک به یک ساعت فقط  روی زمین نشستم واطراف  را نگاه کردم و غرق در خود و  حال عرفانی لذت بخشی بودم

سپس خاطرات گذشته من را از مسجد به سمت بازار وکیل برد جایی که تماشای معماری اصیل  آن با نقش ها و طاق های آجری و قالیچه های آویزان از آن و تجربه حس و حال زندگی سنتی با بوی تند ادویه جات دکان های عطاری مرا به تاریخ و ریشه های گذشته گره می زند

در یک روز دیگر بهاری٫ سر از پا نمی شناختم تا به دست بوسی لسان الغیب بروم.  بر سر آرامگاه نشستم  به رسم عادت همیشگی درخت های نارنج را یکی یکی شمردم و   تفالی زدم بر دیوان  حافظ  شیرازی

به جان خواجه و حق قدیم و عهد دست

که مونس دم صبحم دعای توست

در پایان برای اینکه بار دیگر غرور ملی ام را یادآور شوم به تخت جمشید رفتم و از این جایگاه والای تمدن و حقوق بشر با شهرم برای بار دیگر وداع کردم و راهی خانه دومم شدم


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